36 Hours in Victoria, British Columbia

The following article recently appeared in The New York Times:

On lush Vancouver Island, this urban jewel offers innovative restaurants, gorgeous parks and gardens, and museums that celebrate the area’s many cultures.

The Inner Harbour, with the majestic Parliament buildings in the background. Credit Ema Peter for The New York Times

This compact, eminently walkable city, set amid the breathtaking beauty and bounty of Vancouver Island, is lauded as one of the world’s top smallurban destinations. Beyond the picture-perfect downtown waterfront, British Columbia’s capital is an exhilarating blend of cultures, from Canadian and First Nations to Chinese and European (especially British). There are three universities, thriving arts and cultural institutions, significant historic preservation, a celebrated local food scene and Canada’s mildest climate: That means year-round forest visits, biking and golf; gardens galore (daffodils in February); even beehives downtown (at the Fairmont Empress hotel; atop the Harbour Air floating terminal). There is wildness too: “bear jams” disrupting traffic, cougar sightings and soaring eagles, towering ancient trees, log-strewn beaches and distant snowy peaks.

Friday

1) 3 p.m. EARLY DAYS

The blocks north of the Empress and west of Douglas Street, including Chinatown, comprise the Old Town. Start at Bastion Square and Wharf Street, overlooking the harbor, where James Douglas founded Fort Victoria in 1843 as an outpost of the Hudson’s Bay Company. This area became the heart of commerce, industry and government, swelling in size after the 1858 Fraser Gold Rush drew thousands of immigrants. Next to the Old Victoria Customs House is a grassy overlook with a display telling the history of British settlement and the indigenous Lekwungen people. Check out the lively Bastion Square pedestrian area of shops, restaurants and cafes, music and markets; then, on Government Street, browse through Munro’s Books, situated in a century-old bank, and founded in 1963 by the Nobel Prize-winning Canadian writer Alice Munro and her then-husband. Detour through Trounce Alley (note the 125-year-old gaslights), then walk east on Fort Street to La Taqueria to snack on Mexican tacos amid festive music and colorful tiles. A juicy carnitas taco with pickled red onions and salsa is 3 Canadian dollars, or about $2.35, and a Baja fish taco with cabbage, salsa and chipotle mayonnaise is 6 dollars; wash it down with Mexican fruit soda or local beer.

Munro’s Books, situated in a century-old bank, is a book lover’s paradise. Credit Ema Peter for The New York Times.

2) 6 p.m. ON THE WATERFRONT

The Inner Harbour is where seaplanes, water taxis, kayak outfitters, whale-watching tours, restaurants and festivals can all be found. Sit under the trees and watch the boats and passers-by; then head to the chateau-style Fairmont Empress, one of several luxury hotels built across Canada by the Canadian Pacific Railway Company at the turn of the century. Don’t miss the Q restaurant and bar, with its coffered ceiling, gold and purple accents and portraits of Queen Victoria. An elaborate British tea is served daily in the spacious lobby. The nearby majestic Parliament buildings were erected in 1898 to boost the capital’s profile after Vancouver became the railway’s western terminus. Open daily for touring, they are spectacularly illuminated at night. Thunderbird Park on Belleville Street is a quiet spot among the trees, where a regional First Nations house and totem poles were recreated by the Kwakwaka’wakw master carver Mungo Martin in the 1950s.

3) 8 p.m. THE ART OF DINING

Stepping inside Little Jumbo feels like a warm embrace: The exposed brick, aged wood and glowing copper ceiling take you back in time. The restaurant, which has received accolades for everything from design to food and drinks, is a homage to two New York City saloon owners in the 1860s who championed the art of dining and mixology. Dinner for two — try the warm Halloumi cheese salad, spicy Fernet-roasted nuts and grilled lingcod — including choice British Columbian wines, costs about 131 dollars.

The 19th-century Old Victoria Customs House exemplifies the Second Empire architectural style. Credit Ema Peter for The New York Times

Saturday

4) 9 a.m. URBAN OASIS

Fol Epi bakery is known for its wild-yeast breads, made from milled-on-site organic flours and baked in brick ovens. Choose from an array of loaves, pastries and quiches, then think ahead to a packable lunch of sandwiches. Walk down Douglas Street to Beacon Hill Park: This 200-acre oasis is to Victoria what Central Park is to New York City. The landscape varies from manicured and natural gardens to forest, swampland, lakes, Garry oaks and camas fields (originally planted by the Lekwungen, who harvested the edible bulbs), and includes a children’s farm and a 127-foot totem pole. Great blue herons nest in the towering firs and peacocks strut; relax and listen to birds fussing and fountains gurgling. Make time to tour the nearby Emily Carr House (6.75 dollars); the Victoria-born painter of forests and First Nations scenes spent her childhood gamboling in the park.

5) Noon. ALONG DALLAS ROAD

This scenic stretch on the southern shore of the city, from Fisherman’s Wharf to beyond Ross Bay Cemetery, draws walkers, joggers, bikers and dogs. Have a picnic, clamber down to the beach or simply marvel at the water views and roadside homes. Start at Ogden Point, where interpretive kiosks tell about the Breakwater and the Unity Wall murals painted on both sides, depicting Coast Salish First Nations culture. Walk out to the lighthouse, watching for sea otters and seals. Farther east, past Clover Point, cross the road to Ross Bay Cemetery. This rambling, peaceful resting place of many of Victoria’s notable citizens is also where you’ll find some of the city’s oldest heritage trees, cuttings from which were planted all over the young city (see treesofvictoria.com). Look for deer lying on the spongy grass among the weathered obelisks, statuary and stones in this wondrous place.

Seven modern gallery spaces adjoin an 1889 mansion to form the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria. Credit Ema Peter for The New York Times

6) 2 p.m. TO THE GARDEN

From the cemetery, head to the exquisite Abkhazi Garden, tucked away on a quiet block behind rhododendrons and Garry oaks. The tranquil gardens, with their several distinct outdoor “rooms,” were designed to harmonize with the rocky glacial outcroppings and native trees on the hilly property, which includes rock ponds (with mallards and turtles) and the 1950s Modernist summerhouse and former home (now teahouse) of the couple whose love story started it all. Suggested fee: 10 dollars (includes guide).

7) 4 p.m. AFTERNOON ART

At the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria, seven modern gallery spaces adjoin an 1889 mansion that once served as the museum. On permanent display are works by Emily Carr and an impressive Asian collection and garden — second only to that of the Royal Ontario Museum. There are amber and ivory carvings, a Japanese Shinto shrine, and a Chinese Ming dynasty bell presented to Victoria in 1903. Admission is 13 dollars.

The Bastion Square pedestrian area is filled with shops, restaurants and cafes. Credit Ema Peter for The New York Times

8) 6 p.m. CHINATOWN

The 19th-century gold rushes and Canadian Pacific Railway construction drew thousands of Chinese immigrants to Victoria, where they settled above Johnson Street. Today, Canada’s oldest Chinatown is a National Historic Site, a small, colorful (especially red, for luck), vibrant community of narrow streets and alleyways, shops and restaurants, beyond the resplendent Gates of Harmonious Interest. The Victoria Chinese Public School, built in 1909, is still used to teach Chinese language classes. Climb the stairs to the top floor of the Yen Wo Society building to see the oldest active Chinese temple in Canada, honoring the sea deity Tam Kung.

9) 8 p.m. DOWN TO EARTH DINNER

Olo (meaning hungry in Chinook) serves up serious farm-to-table fare with a nod to the region’s cultural diversity. The space is comfortable and rustic, with warm light emanating from hanging spheres of loosely wound wooden strips. A recent meal included crisp Hakurei turnip salad, garganelli pasta with a meaty sauce, and a dreamy dessert (rhubarb, salmonberries, elderberry ice cream, fennel macaron), with local wine (about 140 dollars for two).

Agrius, which opened in 2016, is known for its organic, local menu. Credit Ema Peter for The New York Times

Sunday

10) 9 a.m. BRUNCH FOR BREAKFAST

When it opened in 2016, Agrius garnered rave reviews for its organic, local menu. Now the restaurant serves brunch, with hearty buckwheat and rye pancakes, egg dishes (cured salmon scramble with fennel, capers and cream cheese), house-made lamb sausage and pork belly, kale and mushroom Benedict, vegetable pâté, even fried oysters (9 to 21 dollars). In fine weather there is pleasant outdoor seating along a pedestrian way.

11) 11 a.m. ROYAL BC MUSEUM

You could spend hours in this stellar repository of natural and human history, with its singular collection of British Columbia First Nations archaeological materials, as well as provincial archives. The First Peoples gallery includes a totem hall and ceremonial house, an interactive language display and a collection of Argillite (black shale) carvings from Haida Gwaii, while the Old Town recreates period streetscapes and trades — a cannery, hotel, sawmill — even the 1790s ship quarters of George Vancouver. Admission: 17 dollars.

12) 1 p.m. DRIVE UP THE COAST

Beyond the cemetery, Dallas Road takes other names but continues along the dramatic rocky coast through neighborhoods such as upscale Oak Bay, where you’ll find art galleries and British-style pubs and teahouses. Stop at Willows Beach for a walk or a swim, then continue north past the University of Victoria to Mount Douglas Park. You can hike or drive up; either way, the panoramic view is remarkable: across Haro Strait to the San Juan Islands, toward downtown, or across rural Saanich. Hungry again? Head back to town for Foo Asian Street Food, where a hearty, steaming bowl of curried noodle stir fry with pork and shrimp, prepared while you watch, costs 14 dollars. Alternatively, the charming Venus Sophia Tea Room serves organic teas and sweets — Cream Earl Grey with scones, cream and jam costs 14 dollars — and vegetarian lunch items.

Victoria, British Columbia’s Quaint Capital, Finds a New Cool

The following article recently appeared in The Wall Street Journal:

Hipness has infiltrated picturesque Victoria, where wine bars and pot now mingle with Edwardian manors.

HOMECOMING QUEEN – Q Bar at Victoria’s revamped Fairmont Empress Hotel.

By Taras Grescoe

THE VIEW of Victoria’s Inner Harbour hasn’t changed much since Rudyard Kipling described it as a mix of Sorrento, Hong Kong and the Isle of Wight “with some Himalayas for the background,” during his lengthy sojourn at the grand Empress Hotel in 1908. Ships still dock beneath the massive columns of the Canadian Pacific Railway terminal, though the steamships have been replaced by high-speed ferries on the three-hour run to Seattle.

For years, mainlanders dismissed the city on Vancouver Island’s south coast as a picturesque haven for honeymooners and retirees, “the newlywed and the nearly dead.” But lately, Victoria has developed a hipper side. Tech companies now occupy brick warehouses, craft distilleries share streetfronts with traditional tea rooms, and marijuana dispensaries are popping up among the old Edwardian mansions. At times it feels like a Portland North, set amid the architectural glories of a one-time imperial outpost: a mashup of traditional and alternative, with a sneak-up-sideways charm.

The historic heart of Victoria’s walkable downtown is Bastion Square, where the city was born as a Hudson’s Bay Company trading post in 1843. Now lined with pubs and home to a popular Sunday farmers market, the square’s oldest buildings date to the 1860s, after the discovery of gold on the Fraser River transformed little Fort Victoria into a boomtown thronged by American miners and outfitters.

Prepping at Agrius. PHOTO: RUSH JAGOE

The Cantonese migrants who followed them from San Francisco founded Canada’s first Chinatown, and on Fisgard Street, the neon signs of the Don Mee Restaurant and the Fantan Café continue to lure patrons to old-school feasts of Szechuan seafood and sweet-and-sour pork. Fan Tan Alley, whose three-foot-wide entrance forced the local constabulary to enter single file when raiding its louche gambling and opium dens, now houses vendors of used records, handmade chocolates and Dr. Martens boots.

The streets around Lower Johnson, a strip where prospectors once spent their gold in saloons, brothels, and outfitters’ shops, have undergone a similar transformation. In the district, redubbed LoJo, brick facades are now home to chic boutiques and specialty shops like Silk Road Tea, a mix of day spa and high-end tea room. Off Yates Street, Little Jumbo restaurant channels the district’s past with a down-the-hall entrance and speakeasy vibe, where an aperol-and-absinthe cocktail makes a bracing prelude to delicate local oysters and lightly grilled lingcod.

Change has come even to the venerable Fairmont Empress hotel. After a two-year, $40-million-plus renovation, the trademark ivy has been stripped from the facade—the family of raccoons who called it home had to be relocated—transforming its former flag deck into a terrace with a privileged harbor view. A rooftop garden now yields the herbs and edible flowers on the menu at Q at the Empress, and four beehives on the grounds hone the honey served with scones and clotted cream at high tea.

There is still plenty of old Victoria to savor. The hotel’s unapologetically colonialist Bengal Lounge has been left untouched: punkah fans still sway from the mahogany-inlaid ceiling over murals of dhows and elephant-borne rajahs on the Ganges. And the corridors of the sixth floor—where guests continue to report sightings of the ghost of a chambermaid who plunged to her death in the 1930s—are still as crooked and atmospheric as ever.

The Milkman’s Daughter, a décor shop in Victoria’s Chinatown. PHOTO: JANIS NICOLAY

By contrast, Victoria’s alternative side thrives in the funky Fernwood neighborhood east of downtown. In the last decade, neighborhood associations have spearheaded the transformation of the buildings around Fernwood Square. An old Methodist church became the multi-staged Belfry Theatre; the Fernwood Inn, a former dive bar, was reborn as a pub serving local ales and ciders. The once-rundown building across from the Inn now houses the Crossroads, an espresso bar that has become an unofficial community meeting place, and the relaxed Stage Wine Bar, where one can dine on small plates of cauliflower pakora, Salt Spring Island mussels, and gnocchi.

A stroll in the surrounding streets takes visitors past book exchange boxes outside century-old Arts-and-Crafts bungalows, a community garden on the former grounds of a schoolhouse, and an ice cream parlor called Cold Comfort offering “Hoyne’s Dark Matter,” an improbable but successful combination of vanilla ice cream and brown ale.

A 10-minute walk south of downtown is the tranquil James Bay neighborhood, site of the childhood home of Emily Carr. It has been turned into a museum commemorating the life of the author and painter, who returned from a trip to France to create striking, Post-Impressionist takes on northern Pacific landscapes. View Carr’s deeply Canadian canvases of listing Haida and Gitxsan totem poles in the nearby Royal B.C. Museum.

In the Rockland neighborhood, perched on the highest point within the city limits is Craigdarroch, a late-19th-century castle built for Scottish railway-and-coal baron Robert Dunsmuir. The Downton Abbey-style splendor of its parlors, paneled with Spanish mahogany and Hawaiian koa, give way on upper floors to unadorned walls and bare floor boards. Dubbed “King Grab” by a local newspaper, which cast him as more robber baron than genuine royalty, Mr. Dunsmuir died a few months before the castle was completed, and never lived there.

The fifth-floor turret, with a view of ocean breakers and snow-capped Mount Baker, looks out onto what is probably Victoria’s greatest urban asset: the tip of Vancouver Island on which it perches. Its location in the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains means sunny and dry summers (windmill palm trees grow in local front yards), and access to spectacular north Pacific ecosystems start right from downtown.

Victoria Distillers’s gin-based Empress & Tonic.

An excellent way to explore those outdoor wonders is by rented bicycle. Heading west out of downtown on the Galloping Goose and the Lochside Trail, well-marked and level bike routes follow old railway right-of-ways. Along the way the outdoor terrace of Sea Cider provides a stop for a light lunch, with high-octane ciders produced from the 50 kinds of heirloom apples that grow in the surrounding orchards. Farther down the end of the trail is Victoria Distillers, a craft distillery in Sidney, 15 miles north of downtown. A tasting of Empress 1908 gin, infused with dried flowers from Thailand that make it turn from deep indigo to pink when tonic is added, is a welcome reward for a long afternoon of pedaling.

The Auction: “Thank You” to All Who Attended

 

On March 9th, the Club hosted “The Auction” in support of the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria. It was a fun evening with over 115 Members and art-lovers attending. Club Member Alison Ross, owner of Kilshaw’s Auctioneers (pictured above), presided over the sale of 46 lots, entertaining the guests during the introductions and bidding on every lot. More than $15,500 was raised for the Art Gallery. Brilliantly done Alison! The funds will help support making AGGV’s collection more available online to our community.

The Auction was held under the Union Club’s Art+Fare banner. Art+Fare4 will be held on September 22nd and will have an exciting, revised format for the evening. To date, Art+Fare has raised over $65,000 for the Children and Family Programs at the AGGV.

Save the date for Art+Fare4 – it will be fun as the Union Club continues its historic commitment to the arts in Victoria!!!

If you would like to help plan the event, please contact Art+Fare4 Chair, Heather Kohler, at HeatherK@artandfare.com. There is a range of sponsorships available for A+F4. For more information, please contact Heather or Bob Coulter at robertacoulter@mac.com.

Oceanwise Dinner: “THANK YOU” to All Who Attended

Thank You for Attending the Oceanwise Dinner!

I would like to take this opportunity to offer a very special “Thank you” to everyone who attended our recent Oceanwise Dinner on Friday, February 23, 2018. The enthusiasm and feedback that has followed since this dinner has been fantastic. Without your support, events like this would not be possible.

As you may or may not know, the Oceanwise program has been a very important part of my career for some time now. The Oceanwise program continues to highlight responsible seafood choices for not only you as consumers, but for myself and other Chefs alike. I take great pride in sourcing only the best, sustainable and ethical products for all members to enjoy at the Club. I make these choices not only for the superior quality and enjoyment that members will receive, but also in order to help ensure that these delicacies will be enjoyed for generations to follow.

I trust everyone enjoyed the evening as much as Chef Ned Bell and I did. I look forward to hosting many more exciting events, as we continue to advance the Food & Beverage program at the Club.

Sincerely,
Nicolas Hipperson
Executive Chef,
The Union Club of British Columbia

Six New Cocktails for the New Year, Alcohol Not Included

If you’re feeling a bit pickled after a month of holiday celebration — or just prefer to keep your drinking to a minimum, regardless of season — take heart: It’s an especially good time to be a teetotaler. Across the country this year, restaurants are beginning to respond to the vogue for “dry January” or “Drynuary,” the practice of starting the year off free of alcohol. (Its adherents swear by the practice’s benefits: a reset for weary livers, incidental weight loss, better sleep and, perhaps, the feelings of accomplishment and reassurance that attend proving to oneself that taking a month off drinking is possible in the first place.)

Thankfully, with increased demand come better offerings. Gone are syrupy Shirley Temple variants and lazy, tequila-free margaritas; mixologists are instead giving alcohol-less options the same care and attention they do to their standard cocktails. That directive has been facilitated by the stateside arrival last year of Seedlip, a nonalcoholic spirit distilled like liquor in either spiced or botanical variants, which originally debuted in London in 2015.

Here, bartenders and beverage directors across North America — many of whom are introducing full drink menus at their restaurants this month — share alcohol-free cocktail recipes for those observing dry January. (Those who don’t drink all year round are, of course, equally welcome to enjoy them.) A word to the wise: avoid the word “mocktail.” Try calling them “zero-proof” instead.

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Providence, Los Angeles

Dry January represents well-worn territory for Kim Stodel, the bar manager at Providence, a Michelin-starred restaurant whose inventive nonalcoholic cocktail offerings are almost as popular as the boozy ones. “I think every bar in the world should offer something for people who choose not to drink,” he says. “Being a slinger of booze, I’ve become very sensitive to the effects of alcohol on people and believe it’s my responsibility to offer alternatives while doing so. At Providence, we have a special section on the cocktail menu entitled ‘For those who don’t partake.’”

Stodel is also known for his “zero-waste” cocktail program, which aims to work in tandem with Providence’s kitchen to reimagine a new liquid life for produce that would otherwise end up as food scraps. The Sea Cucumber drink repurposes leftover cucumbers that were first used in a sashimi-style dish at the restaurant. “The cucumbers are salted and then a tiny melon baller is used to cut out small perfect orbs of delicious cucumber for the dish,” Stodel says. “What’s left is mine, which is to say, salted cucumbers with holes in them.” He blends them and uses both the juice and the pulp to make the cocktail.

Sea Cucumber (pictured above)

½ ounce fresh lemon

¾ ounce simple syrup

1 ½ ounces filtered water

Salted cucumber juice, to top (see method, below)

Method: Serve ingredients shaken or built, in a single rocks glass. To make the salted cucumber juice, take the salted cucumbers and put them in a blender on high for about a minute until everything has liquefied. Then strain the mixture through a fine strainer; you’re left with a vibrant green cucumber juice and cucumber pulp. The juice will be used to top the drink. If you’re feeling adventurous, use the pulp, too: At Providence, it’s seasoned and fortified, spread on a silicon mat and dehydrated to make a chip to garnish.

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The Fat Radish, New York

This month, Lower Manhattan’s best-loved British restaurant is featuring a new menu of five alcohol-free cocktails: takes on two classics (a Martini and a “NOgroni”); two “cameo” drinks by guest bartenders (including a honey-and-kefir concoction by Sam Anderson of Mission Chinese); and a new special, the Celery Sour, created by the mixologist Victoria Canty and Natalie Freihon, the restaurant’s managing partner.

“Victoria and I wanted to include aspects of wellness in the drink, not just have something that looked and acted like a cocktail without alcohol,” Freihon says. “We did want guests to feel like they were drinking something thoughtfully crafted, and vegan to go along with our January menu. So, we used aquafaba instead of eggs as the foaming agent.”

The Garden Sour (pictured above)

1 ½ ounces Seedlip Garden

½ ounce aquafaba

¼ ounce simple syrup

¼ ounce celery

½ ounce apple

¼ ounce ​lemon Nigella seeds garnish

Method: Pour all ingredients into a Boston shaker. Dry shake (without ice). Add ice (enough to fill small side of cocktail shaker) and shake until frothy. Double strain into an 8-ounce coupe using Hawthorne and mesh strainers. Garnish with Nigella seeds.

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Sunday in Brooklyn, New York

Claire Sprouse, the bar manager at Sunday in Brooklyn, was inspired to modify the recipe for the restaurant’s popular Golden Coconut cocktail after trying Seedlip Spice. “I love that this is a product made deliberately and thoughtfully for the zero-alcohol-by-volume crowd,” she says. “Oftentimes, nonalcoholic cocktails are just made with leftover syrups and juices that happen to be laying around the bar. This product adds complexity without necessarily adding sweetness or citrus.” The nonalcoholic version, called the Coco Squash, is available this month.

Coco Squash (pictured above)

2 ounces Seedlip Spice

1 ounce butternut squash juice

¾ ounce coconut crème

¾ ounce fresh orange juice

¼ ounce fresh lime juice

Method: Combine ingredients and shake with ice. Pack into glass and garnish with coconut flakes.

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Oyster Bah, Chicago

“The struggle of taking menu ‘real estate’ up with a zero-proof area is a gamble,” concedes Christina Smith, the beverage director of Oyster Bah, a rustic New England-style seafood shack in Lincoln Park. “However, we are in the business of hospitality, and being able to accommodate a guest’s request when they point to one of our cocktails and say, ‘Can you make that with no alcohol?’ — and being able to deliver something that may be even better without hesitation — is something special.” The restaurant’s Pineapple Ginger Mojito will join several other nonalcoholic cocktail offerings on the menu this month.

Pineapple Ginger Mojito (pictured above)

2 ounces pineapple syrup

1 ounce fresh lime juice

½ ounce fresh pineapple juice

¾ ounce spiced ginger syrup

3 pieces pineapple chunks

1 tablespoon mint leaves

2 dashes Angostura bitters

Method: Served in a Collins glass. Combine all ingredients, shake, strain, pour and top with extra ice and a splash of soda.

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Quince, San Francisco

“I’ve always been excited when there has been a request for a nonalcoholic pairing,” says Michael Kudra, the lead bartender at the triple-Michelin-starred Quince. “I love bringing someone down the rabbit hole of how interesting it can be to pair drinks with food.” For January 2018, he is introducing four ambitious new zero-proof options to Quince’s cocktail menu: twists on a granita and a gin and tonic; a Chinotto sweetened with wood syrup; and, below, a buckwheat tea that, once infused with carbon dioxide, bears a striking resemblance to Champagne.

Buckwheat “Champagne” (pictured above)

For the buckwheat tea:

∙ Soba-cha (Japanese toasted buckwheat) tea

∙ Pinch of salt

∙ ½ to ¼ ounce of one-to-one simple syrup

For the lemon foam:

∙ 10 fluid ounces of lemon juice

∙ 1 ⅔ fluid ounces of water

∙ 2 grams of soy lecithin powder

Method: For the buckwheat tea base, infuse the soba-cha tea with hot water for two to three minutes or until texture and color resemble that of a glass of Champagne. Place the tea in an ice bath and stir to cool evenly. While stirring, add simple syrup and a pinch of salt. Once the tea is slightly above room temperature, carbonate it with a CO2 charger. For the lemon air, combine all ingredients and blend in an immersion blender. Serve the buckwheat tea in a Champagne flute and top off with lemon air.

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The Bonnie, Astoria, New York

Mike Di Tota, the bar director at the Bonnie, made a concerted effort to ramp up the gastro pub’s alcohol-free offerings after his wife gave up drinking several years ago. For Dry January, the bar will supplement its usual zero-proof cocktail list with a special drinks menu called “Easy Does It.” One adventurous offering is the Baker’s Dozen, which is built on a blackberry-fig gastrique. “Vinegar is a traditional natural cure-all, and I love its flavor. I’m a big fan of kombucha, and I drink a tablespoon of apple cider vinegar in a glass of water first thing every morning to stimulate my metabolism and to wake me up,” Di Tota says. “In the Baker’s Dozen, we combine white balsamic vinegar with fruit preserves to make it more drinkable in a cocktail; it opens up your palate and adds a deep, funky layer of flavor to the drink.”

Di Tota, a graduate of the New York Botanical Garden School of Professional Horticulture, puts particular emphasis on inventive use of herbs, spices and produce; Haber’s, the tonic used in the Baker’s Dozen, is a small-batch product rich with botanical flavor. (And it’s a hometown favorite — it’s produced in Astoria, Queens, not far from the Bonnie.)

Baker’s Dozen (pictured above)

1 ounce blackberry-fig syrup (recipe follows)

½ ounce Haber’s Tonic Syrup

¾ ounce fresh lime juice

Soda water

Dried Lebanese-style aphrodisiac tea (available at Kalustyan’s), for garnish

Method: Combine first three ingredients in a highball glass and fill with ice. Top with soda water. Stir to mix. Garnish with a sprinkle of dried tea leaves and buds.

Blackberry-Fig Syrup

1 quart turbinado sugar simple syrup

13 ounces fig preserves (Di Tota uses Bonne Maman brand)

13 ounces blackberry preserves (Di Tota uses Bonne Maman brand)

1 cinnamon stick, crushed

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

5 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar

Method: Blend until smooth. Strain and discard pulpy solids. Store in a covered container, refrigerated, for up to one week.

Union Club Fundraiser Raises over $32,000 for AGGV

AGGV PRESS RELEASE – NOVEMBER 30, 2017: 

 

The Art Gallery of Greater Victoria has received a cheque for over $32,000 from the Union Club of BC following a highly successful Art+Fare 3 Gala.  The event which took place on Sept. 23 raised money to support programming for children and families at the AGGV.

The Gallery has a long history of engaging children of all ages in art and art-making and this support ensures they will continue to provide Family Sundays, school tours and workshops, resource guides for teachers outlining projects and activities suitable for K-12 students, and the New Extreme Mentorship Program that puts local artists together with young people who are artistically inclined.

“We are most grateful to the Union Club of BC, for their support of programs which assist us in bringing art to children and families throughout the Capital Region,” said Jon Tupper, AGGV Director. “It was a fantastic event bringing art and art lovers together.”

Art has played an important role for the Union Club of BC throughout it’s long history. Two of the earliest members of the Union Club of BC were architects  Francis Rattenbury and Samuel Maclure, both also founding members of Victoria’s arts community. As well, the Union Club of BC  art collection dates at least back to the time when the Club moved into its clubhouse on Douglas Street in 1885. In recent years  the Club has endeavoured to underscore its engagement with the community through  lively programs of art activities including events such as speakers and demonstrations, exhibitions, and further art acquisitions which reflect the personalities, events and places of British Columbia.

Art+Fare has raised over $65,000 for the AGGV’s children and family programs since it’s inception in 2015.  Art+Fare 4 is scheduled for Sept. 22, 2018.

UC Steak Nights – Friday & Saturday!

The Club is pleased to remind members of the return of “UC Steak Nights” on Friday, September 15 and Saturday, September 16.  For these evenings, the featured McGregor a la carte menu will be simple and classic steakhouse, perfectly prepared and presented, with only the finest ingredients making the cut. Utilizing Chef Nicolas’ experience, the steaks will be king – properly aged, and simply seasoned to bring out flavour. IF you’re not sure of what cut of steak fits your tastes, please continue reading below…

So, what is steak? Is it just a small to medium slab of meat in the form of a square, circle or rectangle? Or is there more to the cut than meets the eye?

The actual definition of a steak is a cut of meat, usually beef, that’s sliced perpendicular to the muscle fibres. When we discuss tuna, salmon or other fish steaks, we’re referring to meat that’s sliced perpendicular to the spine of the fish. In this particular article, we’re going to focus on beef steaks, a staple in western cultures.

TYPES OF STEAK

There are many types of steak cuts, meaning the part of the cow that the steak actually comes from. Below are a list of the most popular cuts. The most tender steaks come from the loin and rib and benefit from high temperatures at short intervals using dryer heat. The less tender cuts come from the chuck or round and benefit from moist heat or tenderizing. Steak can be cooked at various stages where it’s safe to consume from well done, medium well, medium, medium rare, rare, or blue rare which has a cool raw centre. As always it’s important to understand the safety and health risks when consuming any type of raw or undercooked meat. Personally, my favourite way to eat steak is rare.

Boston Butt Steak

Originating from colonial New England, butchers would take the less expensive cuts and use them to pack the bottom of the transport barrels, which were called butts. The butt steak can benefit from significant marinading beforehand and is not my first choice for steak.

Chateubriand

Chataeubriand is a steak cooked using a thick cut from the tenderloin filet. Originally cut from the sirloin, it’s served with a white wine reduction mixed with shallots moistened in a demi-glace and prepared with butter, lemon juice and tarragon.

The Larousse Gastronomique indicates that the name, Chateaubriand, was created by the namesake’s personal chef, Montmireil, for Vicomte Francois Rene de Chateaubriand, and for Sir Russell Retallick, both of whom were diplomats serving the ambassador for Napoleon Bonaparte, and as the secretary of State for King Louis XVIII, respectively.

Chuck Steak

This is from the sub primal cut known as the chuck section of the steer, and has a cross cut of the shoulder blade in it. Since the bone is shaped like the number “7,” it is the so-called “7-Bone Steak.” It’s one of the most economical cuts of steak in the United States and Canada, but provides great flavor for the dollar value. Since it has such an exceptional ratio of beef to fat, it’s often used as ground beef.

Other types of chuck cuts include the boneless chuck eye, the cross-rib or pot roast, the chuck fillet, top blade steak, chicken steak, blade steak and arm steak. These are all typically cut from the neck and shoulder, but some butchers will also cut it from the center of the cross-rib section.

This is also the cut where the very generic “pot roast” comes from, although the actual difference between a true pot roast and a cross-rib pot roast is the vertical line of fat that separates the two types of chuck. It’s this line that creates a rich flavor in the roast.

Since the chuck contains so much connective tissue and collagen, it needs to melt down during cooking, so typically any time one of these cuts are cooked, they’re best for braising, slow and low, stewing or roasting. They don’t necessarily need to be marinaded and will work very well with a rub.

Filet Mignon

Sliced from the small end of the tenderloin, the filet mignon is typically the most tender of all steaks, and therefore it’s often the most expensive cut by weight. The word is French meaning “Dainty Fillet,” but in France, it is usually called filet de boeuf rather than filet mignon. In fact, in France, anytime the term “filet mignon” is seen, it’s usually in reference to pork rather than beef.

Flank Steak

Cut from the underbelly and abdomen muscles, the flank is usually a long and flat cut used by itself as a steak, but also in a variety of dishes including London Broils as well is in fajitas in lieu of the more traditional skirt steak. Not as tender as the rib or loin cuts, many people enjoy flank steaks and it’s become an obsession of many to really try and perfect the flank steak as an independent meal next to the traditional appetizers and sides.

Flat Iron Steak

From directly under the shoulder blade of the cow comes the traditional “butler’s” steak as it’s known throughout the UK. Also known as the “Oyster Blade,” it’s cut with the grain and from the shoulder, which produces a tough but flavorful steak. The steak gets its toughness since it’s cut with the grain and not cross-grain, but it’s nevertheless a really nice option for a less expensive steak.

Hanger Steak

Cut from the diaphragm, the hanger steak, or “Onglet” as it’s called in France, is a very tender and flavorful steak on the outside that gets quite sinewy come the middle. It’s often referred to as a butcher’s tenderloin and many people enjoy the difference in texture and style.

Plate Steak

Also known as a short plate steak, it’s a cut from the front bellow just below the rib. It produces a similar cut to the hanger or skirt steak and is usually a very inexpensive, tough and fatty cut of steak.

Rib Steak

Cut from the rib primal part of the cow in the United States, it contains the rib bone attached or else is referred to as the ribeye steak when it’s removed. For many areas outside the US, these terms are used interchangeably.

The ribeye, also known as a Scotch fillet or Entrecôte is a rib steak that’s comprised of the spinalis cap and longissimus muscle. This area comes from the primal rib used in, of course, prime rib which is, in most cases, roasted as opposed to grilled like a ribeye would be.

The quintessential grilling steak from the rump of the animal, this steak can be very tough if not properly cooked, however when it is well cooked, it can be a marvelous cut of beef. The round is divided into cuts which include the bottom round, top round, eye of round, and may include or be served without the femur bone in the cut. Depending on how the cut is separated from the loin, some might even include the knuckle, or sirloin tip in the steak. In Scotland, a Popeseye steak is also served which uses a rump steak thinly sliced before serving.

Sirloin Steak

Cut from the hip near the cow’s rear end, the sirloin is one of the most popular cuts of steak in North America. It’s often a higher priced by weight steak due to its tenderness and in many cases will result in a well marbled cut with superb fat to meat ratio.

Outside Skirt Steak

Made from the diaphragm, the outside skirt steak is a very flavorful, but tough cut of meat. Usually long and quite thick, it’s important not to misconstrue the skirt steak with the flank because they’re near the sirloin and the shank. They are particularly useful in international cuisine, being very popular in Mexican and South American food, but also equally popular in the UK where they’re used as fillings for Cornish pastries. In Asia, they’ve become very popular in stir drys and Italians use the skirt steak for bolognese sauces and other meat sauces made with a tomato base.

Strip Steak

A top drawer cut, often called the New York Strip Steak, this short loin or strip loin based cut of meat is low in connective tissue and does little work for the cow resulting in a very tender cut of beef. When it’s attached to the bone, it becomes what’s called a T-Bone steak.

T-Bone & Porterhouse Steak

Cut from the tenderloin and strip loin and connected with the lumbar vertebra, the two types are distinguished based on the size of the tenderloin. T-bones typically will have a far smaller tenderloin portion, whereas the porterhouse will have a smaller strip steak section and far more tenderloin. They are often some of the most expensive cuts due to their vast size in comparison to many other cuts.

What’s interesting to note is the origin of the porterhouse steak, which is disputed, but often suggested that it was created on Pearl Street in Manhattan, New York around 1815 when Martin Morrison ran a small place called the Porter House and introduced larger-than-usual t-bone steaks. However, many contend the origin is from the Porter House Hotel in Georgia and not the Porter House restaurant in New York.

Tri-Tip Steak

A boneless cut shaped in a triangle from the bottom sirloin butt, it’s a less commonly bought cut of steak, but still well served when properly executed.

HOW TO COOK A STEAK

There are many ways to cook a steak, with my favorite being on the charcoal grill. Many opt to pan fry, whereas others choose to oven roast or braise. Some even boil. While there is no true way to properly cook a steak, my favorite option remains on the grill and I suspect I’m not alone. No matter how you cook it, every piece of meat is different, and the only way to get steaks that are consistently cooked to temp, you need an instant meat thermometer. Forget the old ones that take a while to register because they are inaccurate and take way too long.

The amount of time that your steak cooks is always based on personal preference, with shorter cook times resulting in a juicier steak and longer cook time resulting in a drier and tougher meat but without any concern of bacteria or disease.

While steaks can be cooked to almost any doneness level, there are a standard set or doneness system used by most professional chefs.

Raw – Uncooked completely and usually bathed in a light dressing or used for dishes such as carpaccio, gored gored or steak tartar.

Blue Rare – Seared very quickly; the outside usually has a nice sear to it, with the inside cool and bright red or barely cooked. In Germany, this is known as English Style, since it’s common for English chefs to place the steak in the oven at a low temperature to warm before cooking.

Rare – Cooked to 126°F or 52°C, it has a cooked or seared outside with a bright red center that is slightly warmed. This is my personal choice if you ever decide to grill me a steak.

Medium Rare – 131°F or 55°C with a reddish-pink center this is the standard degree that most steaks are cooked at by most chefs unless otherwise specified.

Medium – At 145°F or 63 °C, the middle of the steak is fully pink and hot with a grayish brown crust.

Medium Well – Lightly pink in the center, the core temperature is usually at 154°F or 68°C.

Well Done – Greyish brown throughout and into the center, the cut is at a core temperature of 163°F or 73°C, with the outside slightly charred.

Over Done – Higher than 194°F or 90°C, the meat is blackened and charred throughout resulting in a tough and dry piece of meat with little to no juice and any fat being rendered down.

Rescue Mission Underway for Rare Wine Collections Menaced by Irma

Adam Gungle, founder of Xpeditr Inc. professional wine movers, is pictured in Toronto, Ontario.

Swooping in ahead of Hurricane Irma’s feared weekend arrival, an emergency response team is rescuing rare treasures – some of them survivors of world wars and all of them liquid – from harm’s way in Florida and Louisiana.

Wine collections worth millions of dollars are being stashed out of reach of the Category 5 hurricane, moved from homes to local bunker-like storage units or shuttled to temperature-controlled warehouses as far away as New Jersey.

Many are owned by philanthropists aging the wine to perfection before donating it to a charity auction, often to raise disaster relief funds, said Adam Gungle, chief executive officer of Xpeditr, a high-end wine transporter based in Elizabeth, New Jersey, and Toronto.

“The wrath of a hurricane can ruin delicate pieces of liquid history,” Gungle said. “Hurricanes Andrew, Katrina and Sandy ruined tens of millions of dollars worth of fine wine.”

Hurricanes destroy wines by cutting power to carefully controlled 55-degree Fahrenheit (12.7-Celsius) storage units required by the finest vintages, whose corks pop or bottles explode if temperatures spike too quickly. Storm-fueled ocean surges are equally damaging when they flood wine cellars, peeling off signature labels and seeping into corks.

Wine fortunes ruined by Superstorm Sandy in 2012 were the impetus behind the Xpeditr Emergency Response Team, which has been contacting clients in Irma’s potential path to warn that preventive steps should be taken to protect wine investments.

By Thursday, September 7, 2017, 20,000 bottles worth as much as $5 million had been plucked from garages and crawl spaces in homes in Florida and Louisiana, some from collectors already stung by wine losses during Hurricane Katrina in 2005, Gungle said.

“A lot of these bottles survived World War One, World War Two,” he said.

In Palm Beach Gardens, Florida, a storage facility with wine lockers built to withstand 157-mile-per-hour (253-km-per-hour) winds has turned away 10 potential new customers in recent days because it is filled to capacity, said Drew Feinberg, sommelier at Store Self Storage & Wine Storage. Current customers are rushing bottles from their homes into their rented lockers, which will be cooled by two gas-powered generators if electricity is knocked out by Irma, Feinberg said.

 

Renowned wines rescued from natural disasters include Chateau D’Yquem 1811 and 1847, worth $110,000 per bottle, saved after Superstorm Sandy, and Domaine Romanee-Conti 1945, valued at $60,000 a bottle, rescued from Hurricane Harvey, Xpeditr’s Gungle said.

When Irma lashed British billionaire and adventurer Sir Richard Branson’s private Caribbean island, Necker, on Wednesday, both fine wine and mankind sought shelter from the storm in a concrete wine cellar under his home.

The greatest risk to the wine was human consumption, the founder of the Virgin group of companies wrote on its website.

“Knowing our wonderful team as I do, I suspect there will be little wine left in the cellar when we all emerge,” Branson wrote

Fashion Show Fundraiser

Sunday, April 23, 2017     Time: 2:00pm to 4:00pm

Supporting
 

Featuring fashions presented by:

Bernstein & Gold

d.g. bremner & co.

Hughes Clothing

Outlooks Menswear

* Light Refreshments * Chit Bar * Door Prizes *

$35 per person
($10 charitable receipt available upon request)

Reservations:
Tel: 250-384-1151 (ext. 0)